Oof – back since Monday evening and I’ve been running to catch up with meself ever since.
Unsuprising really, when you consider that I bought a daysaver bus ticket and ran all over Edinburgh, eating everything I could, at every opportunity for two of my three days there. (Sunday was a day of rest inbetween, spent gossiping, gawking at Robert Webb’s Flashdance for Comic Relief, raiding my best friend’s bookshelfs and becoming the willing slave of four cats, all of whom had me marked as a soft touch the minute I walked through the door.)
Now, I did eat some proper meals while I was there (honest, I did) - but there seemed to be a certain theme developing as I sifted through the photos. So, in no particular order, a guide to some sweet and/or nibbly things in Edinburgh…
Loopy Lorna’s Tea House… Charmingly mismatched china, gigglesome and wonderful teacosies that change with the season, the best poached eggs I’ve ever seen and, oh yes, a proper clotted cream tea with soft, warm scones and plenty of jam. Did I take a picture when I was inside? I was way too busy scoffing and it was dreadfully remiss of me.

Apple, custard and raisin brioche from The Manna House Bakery, at the top of Easter Road. All my favourite things in one perfect little bread-wrapped package.

Satisfyingly chewy, rock-salt flecked, rosemary-scented fougasse, again from The Manna House Bakery…

Valvona & Crolla, a temple of all things food-related at the top of Leith Walk – stacked floor to ceiling with drink, salamis and strings of chillis dangling from the rafters and, if you’re lucky, an old couple arguing in Italian near to the baked goods section. (I liked to imagine they were married and this was just the continuation of an ages-old discussion about something trivial.)
There’s also a lovely little cafe in the back as well – although the empire has expanded a bit over the past few years to include another cafe and two restaurants. I popped into Centotre on Monday for lunch. Fabulous.

There’s been a lot of redevelopment down near the Old Royal Infirmary site (redubbed ‘the Quartermile’ for sexy selling purposes), most of which seems to involve converting the existing buildings into outrageously overpriced flats and squeezing in some new ones too.
However, tucked cosily at the bottom of one of the new blocks, just next to Middle Meadow Walk, is Peter’s Yard Bakery, a Swedish-run enterprise, where you can stuff yourself full of cardamon-laced pastries and slurp tea to your heart’s content:

Of course, I bought one for later, in case of snacking emergencies, low blood sugar, that kind of thing…

In fact, the only place I didn’t make it to was the one I mentioned specifically in my last post – Falko Konditormeister’s new shop in Bruntsfield. Well, I guess I’ve left something for next time…
ooooo my kinda trip!! sounds like you had a fantastic time and now I want to go there!!! YUM
Comment by Rachel@fairycakeheaven — March 8, 2009 @ 5:41 pm
Yeah, yeah, those low blood sugars are a bugger. You need one of those pastries just to get out of Waverly station!!!!!
Comment by Trekkie — March 8, 2009 @ 5:46 pm
I demand you return forthwith and take fotees inside the tea house……My cup runneth over with jealousy…..
Comment by manuel — March 8, 2009 @ 10:24 pm
Hi Rachel.
Oh yes, it was truly fabulous. Really, I’d be happy to wander round town all day eating cake
Now, is there anyone out there willing to pay me to do it?
Hey Trekkie.
Oooh – I know. Those bloody steps are a killer. I tell you, I got to the top and my legs were screaming blue murder at me. It’s what I get for being a cubicle monkey all day…
Hiya Manuel.
I shall return, oh yes. It’s writ large in my future. (Well, I’m going back for a wedding at Easter, so pretty soon.) I just can’t stop thinking about those lovely warm scones with clotted cream and jam. Oh Mummy.
Comment by Jen — March 9, 2009 @ 1:52 pm
Loopy Lornas! Love it, sounds so quaint. I think I’d fit in very well working somewhere named “loopy”.
I really need to stop reading your blog and EM’s blog. It really does not help my diet one bit. All I can think about now is scones with cream and jam….mmmmmmmm.
Comment by Jennifer (Bert's No 1 Fan!) — March 10, 2009 @ 10:22 am
I love the ‘it’s no good standing out there gasping, my darlings…’ on the window. Fantastic! I think you should do a gastronomic tour of Edinburgh book.. I’d buy it.
Comment by English Mum — March 10, 2009 @ 7:40 pm
PS: Sorry Jenn!
Comment by English Mum — March 10, 2009 @ 7:42 pm
I second that motion!
Um, do you need a travelling companion Jen??!!!
Comment by Jennifer (Bert's No 1 Fan!) — March 11, 2009 @ 4:44 pm
You’re not bloody sorry at all!!!!!
Comment by Jennifer (Bert's No 1 Fan!) — March 11, 2009 @ 4:44 pm
Honest to god, ladies, I leave the blog alone for 24 hours and a bun fight breaks out in the comments!
(See what I did there?)
Jen – I’d do it in a second and would, of course, need assistants. At least two assistants to cross-check and have a fair marking system…
EM – It’s a ticklesome quote, isn’t it? The whole place makes you smile and the staff are just brilliant. They really looked after us – clotted cream tea for about 15 giggling ladies on a hen afternoon rather than night because quite a few are pregnant and so not likely to be dancing drunkenly on the tables. Wonder if they want to set up a branch over here
Comment by Jen — March 11, 2009 @ 8:03 pm
Right, that’s me and Jenn for assistants then (we won’t fight, honest).
What a great idea for a hen. I personally find the idea of staggering around Dublin (or any number of capital cities in Europe), drinking copious shots and vomiting in litter bins rather repugnant. Or maybe I’m just old and boring (or greedy – cream cakes…slurp!) x
Comment by English Mum — March 12, 2009 @ 8:19 pm
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Pingback by Elf in Amsterdam » Blog Archive » Elf’s Drinky Links (II) — March 13, 2009 @ 9:02 am
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Pingback by Elf’s Drinky Links (II) « Elf in Amsterdam — March 13, 2009 @ 9:35 am
I want to go to there.
Especially the Manna House Bakery. I’d almost print out the picture of that fougasse and try and eat it. Bleedin’ lovely it looks!
Comment by aoifemc — March 16, 2009 @ 11:42 am
[...] blogs. I mean, check this guy out. And look at the picture of the brioche and fougasse from this girl! And the bagels! And the [...]
Pingback by Chicken Cacciatore « I Can Has Cook? — March 17, 2009 @ 1:47 am
You are my kinda girl ! I love that you did alot of eating whilst visiting the city. I eat my way aorund aswell, thank goodness it’s hilly to burn some of the calories off.
Be sure to try the Sicillian Pastry shop in Albert street when you’re next in town and La Cerise, 2 of the best around town
Comment by Edinburgh — March 17, 2009 @ 12:49 pm
Hey Aoife.
It’s bloomin’ marvellous, that place. Eating the chewy fougasse made my jaw ache in a happy way. It’s just so damn good. They’ve got a few seats inside the shop too but they’re also usually pretty busy. Price of popularity…
Hi Edinburgh.
Oooh – 2 more places to try out next time I’m back. Huzzah! I think I know the pastry shop you mean – I’ve just never been in. This shall be swiftly remedied
Comment by Jen — March 17, 2009 @ 3:38 pm